HOUNDSTOOTH FLOWER & BLACK MOURNING ROSE BROOCHES

Updated September 24, 2026

This auction ended on October 1, 2026. See upcoming auctions from Bell Remnants.
Lot number295
AuctionRound #2 ~ CENTREVILLE, MISSISSIPPI Van Cleave Family ESTATE
DateOctober 1, 2026 at 6:00 PM CDT
Auction houseBell Remnants
LocationMcComb, Mississippi

AVAILABLE for SHIPPING or LOCAL PICKUP > Pair of oversized vintage fabric flower brooches led by a dramatic 4" black mourning-style rose, formed with dark layered fabric petals, a deep central rose, green textile leaves and a small accompanying bud. The somber coloring, floral form and textile construction are strongly evocative of traditional mourning fashion, where black fabric flowers and related accessories were worn with bereavement dress and later adapted into broader formal fashion. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, mourning wardrobes included specialized black clothing, trims and accessories fashioned from crape, silk and other subdued textiles. Decorative floral elements were used on dresses, coats, wraps and hats, and larger fabric flowers could function almost as part of the garment itself. While this example has the visual character associated with mourning dress, absent a maker label or documented provenance it is best described as mourning-style rather than definitively identified as a bereavement piece. Accompanying the black rose is a particularly large 5-1/2" diameter black and cream houndstooth fabric rosette, constructed with deeply layered dimensional petals. Houndstooth became a classic tailored textile pattern in fashionable outerwear and dress accessories, and the bold scale of this example gives it considerable visual presence. Both are substantial statement-size accessories, considerably larger than many conventional brooches, and would have been worn prominently on a coat, dress, suit, hat, wrap or handbag. Large fabric floral ornaments offered dramatic volume without the weight of comparably sized metal jewelry, and their sculptural construction made them especially effective for millinery and dress decoration. Both retain pin-back fittings, with the hand-assembled reverse construction visible. By later stages of traditional mourning, more decorative fabrics and subdued gray, mauve and related tones could be introduced, allowing floral ornaments to remain expressive while still conforming to mourning etiquette. Oversized fabric flowers also remained fashionable well into the 20th century.

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